heart for the win.
i wriggle my toes into the sand. into the earth. into this island.
i stare at the ocean. the waves. their energy, continuity, fluidity. this magical place, bringing me home. talking me into living. speaking to my heart.
i hear all its wonderful sounds – the curl of the waves into wet sand, the silence that follows. the flittering leaves of the palm trees nearby, the wind against my ear as i turn my head so slightly.
i scratch at day-old mosquito bites.
i watch a surfer emerge safely onto shore, make the sign of the cross and look to the sky.
i take a photo for a couple, two beautiful men from england. they thank me for what appears to be the most generous offer they’ve ever received. no worries, i say, surprised at their graciousness.
i watch it all float by.
i love hawaii so much, i never want to let it go.
so, for now, i won’t.
magical. maui, 2010.
handstands in surfers paradise. queensland, australia.
jaws. peahi: maui, hawaii.
i drove on the wrong side of the road today. well, it was the right side (and correct). but it felt so wrong. i watched tiana and bryce skateboard. they’re so cool. i wish i could skate.
there are so many things i wish i was. i wish i was a surfer – like riding a wave twice the size of me was the only way i could start my day. i wish i was a vegetarian. loving something so much that (no matter how delicious) i would refuse to eat it. i wish i was a musician. where i played an instrument and could jam along with anyone with any type of music.
but i am none of these things. and no matter how hard i try, i’m still going to get scared by big waves, i’m still going to crave a big, fat piece of steak and i’m still going to sing along to songs that i don’t know the words to. as loud as i can.
i loved learning something new today. i know how to drive, but i don’t know how to drive on the other side of the car, on the other side of the road. it gave me a buzz.