waking, my eyes are tired. a little sore, too. my hair is a matted mess of salt and sand. and as i yawn i type methodically, as if it will spill words onto the screen with no thought at all. having just awoke, i’m not thinking much anyway. my movements are slow and meaningful somehow. like every time i breath i know my lungs are filling with air. there is something about this morning.
i’ve woken up a little just writing this. activating my brain, beginning the day. and what a great way to. i feel like writing because i know today is an important day. at home. things like this make me feel like writing. i said it before i left, i knew i’d miss things. and i’m okay with that. but i have a close knit family. so when things like this come up, it’s hard not to feel something about it. so while i’m (more than) happy to be here, i still know i’m missing an important day. but this is important for me too. so i’ll think about it with love. no regret or longing.
we’re going surfing this morning. it’s a beautiful day. “the swell is going to be amazing,” the man in the store told us as i tried on his brightly coloured watches. for a novice like me, i’m not too mad on the swell being amazing. the swell could be terrible and i wouldn’t really know. that’s the beauty of being a beginner. everything seems perfect because you don’t know any different. there’s no comparison. i like that.